Fix it

Why does my well pump run constantly?

A well pump should cycle: run, satisfy the pressure tank, rest. One that never rests is either chasing water it cannot deliver or being lied to by the parts that tell it when to stop — and constant running burns out pumps fast.

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What it usually is

  1. A waterlogged pressure tank

    The tank’s air charge is what lets the system rest between draws. When the bladder fails or the charge leaks down, the pump short-cycles or runs continuously. Tap the tank: all-thud with no hollow ring at the top is waterlogged.

  2. A leak between pump and house

    A crack in the buried supply line, a stuck check valve or a running toilet inside all bleed pressure the pump keeps replacing. A wet patch in the yard along the line run is the outdoor tell.

  3. A failed or misadjusted pressure switch

    The switch that should open at cutoff pressure can weld closed or drift; the pump then ignores a full tank. Gauge reading above the normal cutoff with the pump still running fits this.

  4. A well struggling to supply — drawdown or a worn pump

    If pressure sits LOW while the pump runs on, the pump cannot reach cutoff: dropping water table, clogged screen, or an impeller past its prime.

What you can check yourself

Watch the pressure gauge: pegged low means supply-side; at/above cutoff means switch. Check the tank’s air charge at its Schrader valve with the system drained (should be 2 psi below cut-in). Silence every fixture and watch whether pressure still bleeds down — that reveals a leak. Walk the line run outdoors for wet ground.

When it’s a job for a pro

Pressure switches and tank replacement are standard well-service work; buried-line leaks and downhole pump diagnosis need their equipment. Tell them your gauge observations — it can turn a two-visit mystery into a one-visit repair.

A pressure switch typically runs $150 to $300; a replacement pressure tank $400 to $900 installed; downhole pump work varies with depth, commonly $900 to $2,500.

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