Fix it
Why is my skylight leaking?
Skylights get blamed for two different problems: real leaks past their flashing, and condensation that forms on the glass and drips as if it were a leak. The fix for one does nothing for the other.
What it usually is
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Condensation, not a leak at all
On cold mornings, indoor humidity condenses on the coldest surface in the room — the skylight — and drips off the frame. If drips appear without rain and vanish in mild weather, this is your answer.
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Flashing kit failure at the curb
The factory flashing around the skylight curb relies on correct shingle weaving. Debris damming water above the unit, or a lifted step-flash piece, sends water under the frame during real rain.
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A failed seal in the glazing unit
Fogging between the panes means the insulated glass seal is gone. It usually shows as clouding first and drips later, and it means replacing the glass unit, not the flashing.
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Weep holes blocked by paint or debris
Skylights are built to drain minor intrusion through weep channels; blocked channels turn a designed drip path into an indoor one.
What you can check yourself
First separate rain from no-rain drips over a week of notes. Clear leaves and granule buildup from above the unit. Check for fogging between panes. Run a moisture meter or just your hand around the interior trim after a storm to find the wet corner.
When it’s a job for a pro
True flashing leaks need shingles lifted and the kit rebuilt — a repair with a defined price. Persistent condensation is a ventilation and humidity conversation. A roofing partner can tell you in one visit which problem you actually have.
Re-flashing a skylight typically runs $300 to $800; replacing a fogged glass unit $300 to $700; full unit replacement during a re-roof is the economical moment to do it.
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